Journal · 6 min read

How a custom garment is made, from first conversation to final fitting

Commissioning a piece of clothing for the first time can feel opaque. In practice it follows a clear sequence, and knowing it in advance makes every step easier and the result better.

1. The conversation

Everything starts with talking: what the piece is for, where and how often it will be worn, what you like in clothes you already own and what always bothers you about them. References help: photographs, a garment you love, a colour, a film. This conversation shapes every later decision, so it is worth taking time over.

2. Design and sketches

The ideas are turned into sketches that fix the silhouette, proportions and details: neckline, closures, pockets, length, how the garment moves. This is the moment to change your mind cheaply. A line moved on paper costs nothing; the same change after cutting costs time and fabric.

3. Measurements

A full set of measurements is taken, along with notes that numbers alone do not capture: posture, the slope of the shoulders, how you stand and move. Two people with identical measurements can need quite different patterns.

4. Fabric

Fabric is chosen for how it behaves, not only how it looks: weight, drape, stretch, how it presses and how it wears over time. A coat wool, a silk crepe for an evening dress and a shirting cotton each demand a different construction. Ask to see and handle the fabric before deciding.

5. Pattern and toile

A pattern is drafted, and for more complex pieces a toile is made first: a trial version in inexpensive cloth. The toile shows how the design sits on your body before the final fabric is cut, and lets the shape be corrected safely.

6. Fittings

The garment is then made in the real fabric and refined over one or more fittings. Each fitting adjusts balance, length, ease and detail. It helps to wear the shoes and underlayers you plan to wear with the piece, and to say honestly how it feels to move, sit and reach in it.

7. Finishing

Final details such as hems, buttonholes, linings and pressing are completed once the fit is settled. A well-made custom piece should feel natural from the first day you wear it, and should be easy to alter later if your body or your taste changes.

How long does it take?

It depends on the piece, the fabric and the number of fittings. A shirt is far quicker than a wedding dress or a structured coat. For anything tied to a date, such as a wedding, an event or a premiere, start early and agree the timeline at the first meeting.